A scientific understanding of cooking can elevate dishes to new heights, according to Wylie Dufresne, an acclaimed chef and partner in New York City-based Stretch Pizza. Dufresne shares his innovative approach during a packed session from Pizza Expo 2025.
By understanding the biological and chemical processes at play, chefs can make more informed decisions in the kitchen. Cooking, according to Dufresne, is not bound by a single “right” technique; instead, it’s about achieving desired results through a thorough grasp of scientific principles.
Understanding Deliciousness
The five senses contribute to deliciousness – often even before consumers taste their food. Visual appeal and the feel of the crust aid diners in deciding whether they enjoy a pizza before the first bite.
“We eat with our eyes. … The way you arrange the food on a plate is important,” Dufresne says. “If my pizza looks good before I send it out to you, I’m priming your expectations.” He says humans often associate green with freshness, yellow with acidity and dark colors with rich flavors. Once a chef understands those preconceived notions, “We can use that to our advantage.”
Mouthfeel – texture, temperature and sound – is another focal point. One experiment shows that humans prefer potato chips that make a louder crunch. “When (the scientist) turned the volume down, and the crunch was quieter, they didn’t experience the chip in a positive way,” Dufresne says.
For this reason, creating a layered, multi-sensory dining experience can enhance perceived taste. The way pepperoni is sliced in some Canadian regions, for example, increases the visual appeal of a standard pepperoni pizza.
Science of Taste
The balancing act of sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and umami flavors is vital to crafting a harmonious dish, Dufresne says, adding, “These five tastes just aren’t enough to cover it.” Eighty percent of how we taste food comes through aroma, or the smells that move up from the back of the mouth into the sinus cavities.
“We chew on our food, and we begin to release all these volatile chemicals up into our noses,” he says. “There’s thousands of molecules – we have almost a Rolodex in our brain.”
Pizza Flavor Innovation
At Stretch Pizza in Manhattan, Dufresne has experimented with pizzas that push the boundaries of traditional flavors. Examples include the “Freestyle,” inspired by the zest of lemon pepper chicken, and the “Oddfather,” a medley of zucchini and eggplant infused with Italian spices. These creations illustrate Dufresne’s penchant for reimagining familiar flavors in exciting new ways, drawing diners into a journey of taste exploration.
The Flavor Matrix
To assist chefs in crafting inventive dishes, Dufresne introduces the flavor matrix – a tool that identifies complementary ingredients based on shared volatile compounds. Though not scientifically proven, this matrix provides a valuable creative framework for exploring new flavor combinations. It encourages chefs to step outside traditional boundaries and invent novel culinary experiences.
Understanding Your Audience
Throughout his talk, Dufresne emphasizes the importance of understanding customer preferences. “We bring a ton of baggage to the dinner table,” he says.
He encourages pizza business owners to draw inspiration from everyday life – such as the supermarket aisles – to discover popular flavors and trends. By tuning into what excites their audience, chefs can craft dishes that resonate, creating memorable dining experiences that keep patrons coming back.
Science of Cooking
Dufresne urges pizzaiolos to embrace a scientific approach to cooking, encouraging creativity and innovation. By leveraging the interplay of senses, understanding flavors, and acknowledging customer preferences, chefs can elevate the deliciousness of their offerings. This approach not only enhances the culinary experience but also builds a loyal customer base captivated by exciting and flavorful dishes.
