Fried Pizza Guide: Mastering Montanara & Fritta

Key Points:

• • Pizza Fritta and Pizza Montanara are gaining ground in the U.S., offering pizzerias a differentiated menu opportunity rooted in Neapolitan tradition with room for creative expression.
  • Executing fried pizza well demands process discipline — from dough hydration and oil selection to equipment choice and intentional finishing — making quality and consistency non-negotiable.

As a pizza maker, Neapolitan was my first love. There’s nothing quite like the simple perfection of a Neapolitan-style dough and the sweat-drenched high you get from working the wood-burning oven on a busy night. I was lucky enough to spend my formative pizza-making years working under one of the best pizzaioli in the world. He taught me the methodology of pizza and dough, the abundant history of different styles and immersed me in Neapolitan pizza culture at its source for the first time.

It was there, in Naples, that I experienced the true magic of Pizza Montanara and Pizza Fritta. Done right, there is something other worldly about the crispy, light and pillowy dough. It is an art form, with a history just as rich and meaningful as traditional Neapolitan pizza.

Classic Fried Pizza Styles

A traditional Neapolitan street food, Pizza Fritta can be traced back almost as far as pizza itself. People used to simply fry the leftover scraps of pizza, then make them into something savory or sweet.

Pizza Montanara (or “mountain-style”) is traditionally made in Naples using a 00 flour, fresh yeast, water and salt. It is a double-cooked pizza – first fried and then baked. The dough is stretched, docked and deep fried until golden brown. After the fryer, it is topped with San Marzano tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, extra virgin olive oil and baked in a wood-fired oven for a few minutes to melt the toppings.

Pizza Fritta, on the other hand, is a deep-fried calzone. It can be stuffed simply with cheese or made more complex with an assortment of fillings.

While you might not be able to hop a flight to experience Pizza Fritta on the streets of Naples, plenty of incredible pizzerias in the United States are making it. Some places, such as Don Antonio in New York City, stick to the more traditional method. There, Giorgia Caporuscio, a true master of Neapolitan pizza, makes both Pizza Montanara and Pizza Fritta.

Fried Pizza Variations 

Other pizzerias put their own twist on the classic dish. Isaiah Ruffin of Seattle-based Pizza by Ruffin makes a version of Pizza Fritta using a high-protein bread flour. He fills the fried dough with anything on the menu except red sauce. “We really love taking on the flavors of the Black diaspora and having them shine on pizza,” he says. “A standout flavor combination is our gumbo pizza, which features grilled chicken, andouille, shrimp and a celery, onion and pepper sauce.”

While deep frying the dough is a main characteristic of this style, don’t be deterred if you don’t own a deep fryer. Emily Knudsen of Pleasant Grove Pizza Farm in Waseca, Minnesota, has a fried pizza on her menu that is pan fried. It might not be traditional, but it has a fantastic result. She likes to fry her pizzas in garlic-infused olive oil to build flavor early in the cooking process. Using Neapolitan dough with 60% hydration, Knudsen fries each side of the pie for about two minutes.

Fried Pizza Considerations

Whether you are making your fried pizza in true Neapolitan style or want to put your own spin on it, there are a few key things to keep in mind:

• Pick the Right Oil: What you fry your pizza in has an enormous effect on the overall flavor and texture of your dough. Using an oil that is specifically designed for frying with a high smoke point will help you achieve a dough that is crispy and light with a clean mouthfeel that doesn’t leave a greasy aftertaste. As my friends at Modernist Cuisine said: “Use a high quality, flavorless frying oil. Canola, peanut, vegetable, safflower, corn, cottonseed and sunflower are all good options. And change the oil daily.” There are a few bigger brands – both from Italy and the United States – that make a great version of this. Choose wisely as this can make or break your final dish.
• Hydration Matters: Finding the right hydration is essential to how the dough will cook in the fryer. Caporuscio says, “The hydration is very important. You don’t want a dough that is too dry because it won’t raise and puff while frying. Also, you don’t want too much hydration because it will be hard to handle, will absorb oil while frying and lose structure.” While her ideal hydration is around 62%-63%, you can go up to 70%. Any higher, and you risk the dough absorbing extra oil in the fryer and becoming dense and heavy.
• Trust your Dough: While tradition dictates that you use 00 Neapolitan flour, everyone I interviewed used varying types. Ruffin uses a high-protein bread flour and recommends “using a dough you already make.” My takeaway: As long as you have properly made and developed dough, there are many types of flours and styles that will work well in Pizza Montanara and Fritta.
• Don’t Forget the Holes: Docking your dough or creating some small holes will help to keep it from blowing up in the fryer. You want a puffy, light dough but not one big air pocket. Once the dough is in the fryer, press on it lightly to help maintain its shape; then, flip it over to cook both sides.
• Build Flavors: Pay attention to your ingredients at every step. This means how you make your dough, what cheese and other toppings go on or in your Pizza Fritta and everything that happens after it’s cooked. “Every pizza I create begins with its flavor profile and the idea of flavor infinities,” Knudsen says. “I look for ways to build depth from the very first step – including a light sprinkle of butter burger seasoning directly into the oil before frying. It creates a subtle savory flavor on its own, so every bite of the pizza tastes more complete.”
• Finish With Intention: Even a sprinkle of good quality salt or a squeeze of fresh lemon juice can add another level of flavor to your pizza. It is the first thing that hits your taste buds and can bring out different layers of the dish.
• Use the Right Equipment: Make sure your fryer is big enough to accommodate the size of your dough to ensure that it gets cooked evenly and is not overcrowded. If you’re making Pizza Montanara, you will finish it in an oven with toppings after frying. Typically, a wood-fired oven is used, but a gas or electric will work, too. The goal of the oven is to keep the crispy yet airy texture while bringing out more complex flavors. Caporuscio adds that cooking for a very short time in the oven will add extra crispiness to your pizza and let the extra oil evaporate. If you want to give pan frying a try, Knudsen prefers a tri-ply stainless pan for its even heat distribution and control, which helps achieve a uniform golden crust.

As you can see, Pizza Montanara and Pizza Fritta boil down to attention to the process and details, such as using quality ingredients and creating dishes with intention. Whether you decide to make a Pizza Fritta that parallels the traditional versions or you want to put your own spin on it, don’t be surprised if it soon becomes your favorite pizza. Be ready to build your menu around it and make it the star of the show.

AUDREY KELLY owns Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colorado.