Add Whole-Grain Flour to Pizza Dough

As pizza makers and bakers, we are trained to choose our flour based on what we want our end product to look, feel and taste like. We analyze a bag of flour for the level of protein it contains, how coarsely it is milled, the elasticity it will provide and if it is bleached, unbleached or enriched. Another important question should be what wheat is used. Just as baking has been returning to its artisanal roots, pizza makers are exploring beyond standard “white flour” as whole grains and ancient grains enter the conversation.

Like all plants, wheat will taste different depending on the varietal as well as the region and soil it is grown in. All these factors influence the complexity and flavor of the grain once it is milled. The quality and type of grains have a huge impact on the flavor, texture, color, crumb and nutritional value of the pizza, breads and pastries that we create from them.

Using Whole Grains and Local Mills for my Restaurant

One of my favorite parts of owning a pizzeria is making and experimenting with dough. When I started adding in whole-grain flours, I realized how much I had been missing out. I knew the basics about wheat and flour, but once I started diving deeper, I couldn’t stop. I wanted to know about all the different wheat varietals, why freshly milled flour is so different from mainstream commercial flour, how whole grains can kickstart the fermentation process and the multitudes of flavor and texture they add to pizza dough. Naturally, I started milling flour to add to our dough in my shop with a small mill I bought. This was clearly not sustainable since we don’t have a big enough mill – nor the space for it – to accommodate the amount of dough we make daily. Luckily for me, there are a few fantastic local mills in my area.

Not only was I able to access great grains to mill (and eventually just buy flour from them), I had the opportunity to learn about the different ones available, what would work best in our dough and the different flavor qualities each one contributed. A lot of states also have created grain alliances, which can be a fantastic resource if you don’t happen to have a mill near you. Here in Colorado, the Colorado Grain Chain was started a handful of years ago, and it offers educational classes and resources to members.

Before I settled on a dough I really loved, I tried out some that were almost entirely composed of whole-grain flours and others with varying percentages of whole grains. Some were great and others not so much. There’s a fine line between adding flavor and texture and turning it into a whole-wheat dough. For my shop, we try to make two different doughs, max. This helps with a multitude of things, including labor and space. In order to add freshly milled, local whole grains to our dough and not have it be a completely separate item, I had to scale way back on both the whole-grain flour and my expectations. I found that the sweet spot is closer to five percent whole grains, but you can always push it a little further if you want a heartier dough.

Wheat and Milling Types

You might be asking, “Where do I even begin to choose what whole-grain flour to use?”

In the U.S., there are six classes of wheat:

• Hard Winter Red,

• Hard Red Spring

• Soft Red Winter

• Soft White

• Hard White

• Durum

The protein content of the wheat primarily determines how the wheat will be used. The greater the protein content, the greater the elasticity of the dough. Most of the flour produced domestically is made of hard or soft red wheat. As you can see, all flour begins as whole grains. However, to be classified as “whole wheat” or “whole grain,” the flour must contain all three parts of the grain kernel – the bran, endosperm and germ. The way most commercial flour is milled and processed almost always takes out the wheat’s nutrients by separating the endosperm from the bran and germ.

The most common way to mill grains these days is roller-milling. Most commercial flour companies use this method because it is quick, efficient and produces lots of flour in a short amount of time. The process involves feeding grain through a series of rollers to separate the endosperm – or the part of the grain made up of mostly carbohydrates – from the rest of the kernel. This produces a very fine, white flour. The bran and the germ, which contain most of the grain’s nutrients, are removed in this process, leaving behind an extremely palatable flour with fewer nutrients. Stone-milled flour involves slowly grinding grain between two large stones. This ancient method preserves more of the grain and the nutrients. Flour can then be sifted to achieve varying degrees of coarseness.

While not everyone lives in an area where it is easy to access local, freshly milled wheat, plenty of great flours can be sourced from smaller mills across the country – and even from larger companies. Most are more than willing to answer any questions you have and even send samples for you to experiment with. Some boutique flour companies only carry single-origin flours, whereas others have whole-grain flour blends created for specific baked goods. There are tons of ancient and heirloom grains. If you’re considering them for your pizza dough, I like to look for grains that have pretty high protein content, contribute a unique (but not overpowering) flavor and can be sourced year-round.

Wheat Varieties to Consider for Pizza Dough

Here are a few varietals to get you going:

Clarks Cream Wheat

This Hard White Winter wheat is a great one to dip your toes in. With its subtle color, it’ll blend right in with the rest of your flour while still adding a great texture – and, you guessed it, creamy taste.

Turkey Red 

A personal favorite of mine and many bread bakers, this wheat has high protein content. This is great for higher gluten pizzas, such as New York style, and adds great flavor.

Red Fife

This heirloom varietal adds a rich, nutty flavor and deeper caramel color to your dough.

Yecora Rojo

This wheat has high protein content, is more complex than a lot of other grains and adds a chewy texture to your pizza or bread.

Another great way to incorporate whole grains into your dough is by adding them to your sourdough starter, biga or poolish. Since whole grains naturally have higher sugar content, they will kickstart the fermentation process. Keep in mind that your hydration also will change, since whole-grain flours absorb a lot more liquid.

As you can see, you don’t need to completely overhaul your dough to benefit from the complexity whole-grain flours add to taste, texture and fermentation. Just remember that a little can go a long way. To me, it’s worth the extra effort. After all, you can make your toppings as fancy as you want but, in the end, a pizza is only as good as the crust.

AUDREY KELLY owns Audrey Jane’s Pizza Garage in Boulder, Colorado.